An in-depth guide of 21 model-making tips that you can use to easily improve your scale model-making skills. If you enjoy Gunpla, Warhammer, or other tabletop miniatures – let this article be the starting point to your scale model-making success!
When I get asked ‘How can I improve my scale model-making?’, or ‘What are the best tips to be a better model-maker?’, it is very hard to give an answer that can truly satisfy such a question! For this reason, I’ve taken some time to have a long, hard think about what has helped me improve my craft over the years that I’d like to share with you in the following article. As the article is quite long, I will be updating and providing links to related articles with much more info on particular topics. Let’s get started!
Preparing Your Workstation
Having a well-prepared model-making workstation is the key to success for any model-maker. You want to have everything you need relatively close-by without the working area getting too cluttered. My own workstation comprises of wall-mounted storage units, shelves for paints, a lockable cabinet to store all my nasty chemicals, access to electrical mains, a desk (with a cutting mat), suitable mounting positions for lighting, a photography backdrop, and a bin! The only thing that is missing in close proximity is access to running water for cleaning tools and plastic parts.
This particular set-up, or something similar will allow you to tailor the work space to suit a particular task and as a result, work much more cleanly and efficiently.
These are the 3 main forms of my model-making workstation:
- (A) Model-making preparation, assembly and customization: When I begin a new project and open the model-kit for the first time, this is usually what the workstation looks like. If I am customizing and cutting plastic parts I always have the out. It prevents early dulling of my blades and stops any nasty scratches on the tabletop (I’m a bit OCD about keeping the tabletop surface in good condition!)
- (B) Model-making priming, painting and coating: This is my workstation set-up if I am using ‘non-toxic’ airbrush primers, paints or topcoats. It is quite basic, but it works very well for me. Using a pizza-style box I can spray indoors at the workstation without spraying on the table or walls. As you can imagine, it’s not ideal for toxin-heavy mediums or spray-cans. For indoor spraying of more toxic mediums (using an airbrush not spray-cans) I work in a and usually do all spray-can application outside (weather dependent).
- (C) Model-making photography: This is my luxury and something that can really improve your model-making in the eyes of others. There is a huge difference between having a great finished model and a great photograph of your finished model that captures the same visual qualities! I use a with 3-point lighting (using custom light diffusers), but you could also make a simple light-box to take model shots. The beauty of the backdrop is that the color can be changed easily, at any time, and if the sheets begins to get dirty then simply roll out more.
Get A Good Lighting Setup
For all phases of a project at the model-making workstation I use a three-point lighting arrangement – it’s not the typical ‘three-point’, but it has light sources coming from both sides and above. This kind of lighting has some huge benefits; being able to see all aspects of the model without any distracting or misleading shadows being cast. Even during the day, I will still have the lights on to ensure the working area is consistently well lit!
Previously, I had been using a to brighten up the workstation and allow for some magnification of parts during customization and painting. Personally, I found it got in the way of my workflow too often. If your short distance eyesight is good then, like me, you might prefer full accessibility to your model from all angles (less time adjusting and moving the magnifier lamp; more time modelling!)
When it comes to model photography shots, simply put a basic light diffuser infront of each light source. This will soften the light and get rid of potentially high specularity in your final shot. You can tweak the distance and angles of each light source with varying levels of diffusion if you want to try and stick to traditional three-point photography – using a key light, fill light and back light.
What is specularity?
Specularity (in lighting) is basically where the light catches the object and reflects the light at a particular concentration. Naked, close lights will have a high specularity, with the light appearing bright and sharp. Diffused lights will create a lower specularity and more evenly distribute the light over the surface. Both types of lighting can provide desired effects. You can make some decent DIY light diffusers with some thick cardboard and parchment paper.
High gloss surfaces will tend to appear more specular and reflective, compared to matt finishes. It’s as much about the light as it is about surface when getting the right balance.
Do Some Research: Pre-Paint Planning
Pinterest, Reddit, Instagram, and Twitter are great places to source good quality images of your chosen subject area. When I’m not working on a Gunpla, or Age of Sigmar, I’m usually spending any free time browsing these social media sites. In particular, Pinterest is incredibly useful for this – being able to ‘pin’ inspirational ideas and images to a board for future reference is great for times when you get a creative block.
Get inspired by other model-making enthusiasts! With so many brilliant sources of information right at our fingertips, you have to be referring to other peoples’ work. That’s not to say copy exactly what some else has done, but take various elements from various examples and consider how you could seamlessly combine them all into one project. It could be the use of contrasting colors, material choice or a new technique that you want to try. Set out a plan before you begin any project – fail to plan; plan to fail.
With that in mind, the next 3 tips are particularly important in terms of planning…
Choose The Best Primer For Your Project
Primer is not always essential, but it is something I have always used if there is painting involved in the model-making project. Choosing the best primer for your model is important; laying a good foundation layer allows better adhesion of paints and gives you peace of mind for all subsequent steps, meaning you won’t waste any time and effort invested into your gorgeous model!
Before you begin to apply your primer, consider which type might be appropriate and understand what primers are not suitable (more importantly). Here is a list of some that I have had experience with over the years, with some notes on when is best to use each of them:
Vallejo Polyurethane Surface Primer
comes in a generous sized 200ml bottle, a smaller 60ml bottle, and a mini 17ml bottle. It’s suitable for both airbrush and handbrush application – both with great results. Vallejo polyurethane is a water-based primer, which means it doesn’t contain the volatile chemicals that other aerosol-type primers will have. This makes it brilliant for spraying indoors with an airbrush and requires only a basic filter mask for added protection.
However, I have found that the adhesion to surfaces is just not the same (and not as good) as aerosol/chemical based spray-can primers. Any form of sanding will cause the polyurethane to lift and then it will begin peeling like a very thin rubber sheet. Essentially, the Vallejo polyurethane primer is rubber-like primer; polyurethane is an artificial elastomer. That being said, if you use this for a project that has lots of small details, it is absolutely fantastic! As the primer cures, the elastomeric properties of the polyurethane cause it to have a ‘shrink-wrap’ effect on the part, meaning no detail is lost (provided you don’t apply layers that are too thick).
When to use: Small, fine-detailed parts that will not be handled too much and require no sanding or masking.
When not to use: On large, planar surfaces that require sanding and/or masking.
Stynylrez Polyurethane Surface Primer
The is quite unique, in my opinion. It is one I haven’t used as much, but when I do, I find that the finished piece is much more robust than the likes of Vallejo PU. It is not very toxic and is fine to spray indoors using an airbrush.
Although it is a polyurethane based primer, I do not experience ‘puncturing’ of the primed surface as much as other PU-based primers – it seems to be more forgiving with handling, sanding and masking. It has brilliant self-levelling properties, which helps brings out the fine model details, and it adheres and dries very well (I don’t experience the ‘tacky’ finish that many report with Vallejo). Also, it comes in an Olive Green for those army painters out there!
When to use: Small, fine-detailed parts. Medium parts and surfaces. Good for light sanding and masking.
When not to use: I’d try not to paint anything too large with this, but as it’s always miniatures for me there is no problem.
Spray Can Aerosol Primer
Probably one of the best known, renowned and desired model primer on the market is the from Japan. It can prove somewhat troublesome for air shipped deliveries, with the likes of Amazon not shipping it too particular locations. But, they still have it for sale at varying reasonable prices. The cans don’t seem to last long at all, containing 180ml, but the quality is one of the best. One problem I have with the Tamiya primers is the rate of propellant – it seems quite weak for me in comparison to other spray cans, and although you shouldn’t spray outside if there is wind, these spray cans make it virtually impossible anyway (without getting too close). These may seem like quite negative points, but it’s good stuff and I use it on nearly every model.
Another alternative (and half the price) is the . It holds 150ml and personally, has a much better nozzle and propellant rate. Parts can be lightly coating from a good distance and even spraying in slight wind is not a problem. As with most spray can primers and paints they are solvent based and would really not recommend spraying these inside without some industrial ventilation.
Having both of these primers to use in a single project is a good way of providing a kind of pre-shading before applying your paint. A coat of white on top will create subtle shades of white and add to the realism of your model.
Automotive Shop Primer
Surface Primers from an Automotive Shop, or online sources of Vehicle Primers, are usually the most robust (and some of the most toxic) primers you could lay down on your model. I have a selection of Halford’s primers – Plastic Primer and Filler Primer. For miniature modelling, the distinction between the two in terms of surface finish is not noticeable. However, an odd colored (dark yellow, for example) is useful for lightly coating a grey surface to a different color. This makes it easier to then use a second coat of grey and see how much you are using.
When to use: Medium & Large parts and surfaces. Good for sanding and masking. Could through the kitchen sink at the primed parts.
When not to use: For very, very fine detailed parts. Potential to lose some detail.
Choose The Best Paints
Choosing the best paint for your model-making project is never easy; there are plenty of well-known and trusted brands to choose from and there is no right or wrong choice. The main defining factors for your paint selection will be the chemical composition, application method, color selection and (possibly) price.
For example, paints are acrylic paints, vibrant, with a large color selection, water-based, brilliant for using in an airbrush and have low toxicity, so it can be sprayed indoors while wearing a simple filter mask. Another option is enamel paint such as , containing more chemicals (and as a result) more fumes and smell – not the best for indoor use. However, it is debated that enamel paints provide a harder, smoother and more robust surface finish due to the longer drying time required. They also come in nice little cans with a good indication of finish (matt and gloss) on the lid.
For me, the most important factor that helps me choose the type of paint to use is the paint application method. If you are working with multiple pieces (such as Gunpla panels) then grouping them up and bulk spraying with an airbrush can be the quickest, cleanest and most efficient method of application.
Test Before Applying To Your Model
No matter what paints, primers, or model-making techniques you plan to use on your next project, I would always recommend that you test everything before applying anything to your model. Before I try anything new, I will do a test run an a sacrificial Gunpla kit (the to be specific – poor guy is a model-making guinea pig).
Plastic cutlery is a great solution for accessing paint finish, color, and reaction to pre-shading. Simply prime x10 spoons in white, x10 in grey and x10 in black – keep these stored away for as and when you need to test. Carry out different levels of pre-shading on each set and test a single color on each to see how it performs.This way, you can quickly see and understand how your chosen color pallet will look on the model. This trick is old, but gold!
This method is also very useful for trying out new or different topcoats/varnishes. When I was trying to decide what varnish to use (long-term) I went through a basic model-making process on a few spoons. I began priming, pre-shading, painting, detailing, and then applying different varnishes for two main reasons: to make sure the paints and varnish were compatible so there are no nasty surprises at the last phase of the project, and secondly to see what kind of varnish finish was my favorite.
Model-making is my passion. If it was financially viable, I would love nothing more than to do it as a full-time profession. But, there is one thing about modelling that I appreciate more than anything and that is as an exercise to improve patience!
This tip may seem fairly indirect to physical improvement, but you will be amazed at how much your patience improves as a result of fine detailing, completing repetitive tasks, turning a mistake into a success, or a problem into a solution.
The more you work to refine your craft, the more your patience improves and the more your patience improves, the greater and more skilled you will ultimately become at your craft! I always try and remind myself that frustration will only lead to haste and carelessness – so take it easy, take it slow, and enjoy what you’re doing!
Add Custom Detail: Panel Lines
This is targeted more towards Gunpla, or slightly larger miniature models. Adding your own custom panel lines or scribing detail to your model will increase the visual value of it tremendously! However, it will significantly add onto your overall project time. Here is an example of a recent model I have been working on (). It would take one day to get the parts off the runners, remove gate/nub marks and assemble the kit. If you’re like me, this is not enough! As you can see, there is a massive difference in the quality of an assembled leg by carefully adding some well considered panel lines. For this tip, you definitely get out what you put in. But, what is a panel line? And, how do you add panel lines?
What is a panel line?
I would describe a panel line as ‘a break or contour line in a piece of plastic (or section of a model) that visually separates one panel into multiple panels of the same piece’. Have a look at these two images to better explain this:
Image A shows a single piece of ‘plastic’ as one panel, while Image B shows this single piece split up into 3 panels with the use of panel lines.
How do you add panel lines?
Everyone has their own method, but scribing panel lines consists of simply scraping a series of nice, straight (mostly) lines into the model. If you’d like to read more on my method of applying panel lines, what tools I use and how I ‘design’ the lines you can find much more information in my article on ‘Custom Panel Lines: Easily add perfect panel lines to your Gundam model kit!’
Measure Twice; Cut Once
One of my favorite phrases – and very true! Check your measurement twice before you cut (especially if you’re going for highly accurate scribing etc.) I use a set of when plotting my custom panel lines, or any other fine detail work that involves accurate measurement. You can get much cheaper alternatives that work just as well. A must-have in any model-making tool box.
That being said; don’t be too hard on yourself. More often than not, I will simply eyeball many measurements. If you have are sketching a line with a pencil you can experiment more freely on your model, and if you are measuring and/or plotting similar features on right leg and left leg, for example, you don’t have to worry about them being so precise. When your model is posed, you (or anyone else) will rarely be able to spot any misalignment of measurements.
Use The Correct Glue
As with some of the other ‘correct’ choices (paint, primer etc.), glue is something that does require specific choices for particular applications. With this in mind, there are many types of glues that all have particular uses, but for now I would recommend the following glues to have in your model-making arsenal:
An essential for every model maker using plastic. Liquid cement varies in viscosity, but my go-to is the for one reason; Capillary action. This is the act of placing a small drop of a very viscous substance (liquid cement) into a channel (panel line, for example) giving the liquid the ability to flow into the narrow gaps and fill it out without any assistance. I’ll say it here; don’t be sniffing this stuff – but it does smell quite nice! It’s extremely toxic, so wear gloves when using and keep the lid on at all times and away from flames.
Cyano Acetate Adhesive (aka Super Glue)
The bread and butter glue; will glue most things together without problem with the exception of silicon and PVC, if I remember correctly. I use an superglue with high viscosity (more runny) and it’s what i’ll use to stick Warhammer miniatures together. It takes between 10-20 seconds to begin to set, so make sure you decide where it’s going first! And, be careful with this stuff it will glue your fingers together in an instant if you’re not careful. If you’re going to apply it with a paint brush, use a fine brush and dedicate it to only superglue, as it’ll be useless for much else!
Probably the most well known 2-part epoxy resin is . In a nutshell, the two substances of the glue are combined, react together and form an extremely solid bond between almost any materials. It’s a good choice if you are trying to bond something fairly heavy to another object or diorama base. It can take anywhere up to about 24 hours for some epoxy resins to fully cure, so you have to be patient with this one.
I would strongly suggest to not use PVA glue on any of your models, figures or miniatures! Where they shine is on custom bases or diorama projects. This glue is useful for fixing grass to your base, or adding pebbles, rock and other landscaping objects before you prime and detail everything.
Try Something New
I hope that this article/website/blog is the perfect place for you to discover something new that you could try out on a new project and learn more about model-making. Even if you try a new paint, or a new brush, or a new method – just try it. If you have any questions feel free to send us a message on our Twitter and we’ll be glad to have a chat!
Use An Airbrush
A beginner airbrush is not very expensive and allows you to quickly pick up a good amount of experience with a new tool. When I began experimenting with an on Amazon that included a basic airbrush, compressor and hose. I’ll be the first to say it is not the finest piece of kit out there, but for the money it’s pretty good and mine is still working to this day. Since then I’ve upgraded to an . The main reason I upgraded was just down to a better engineered and finished product, as well as easy to get, good quality replacement parts. It has the ability to modify how far back you can pull the trigger – really useful for preventing over-spraying on finer details.
When to use an airbrush:
I use mine all the time (and indoors). Personally, it’s best for priming Warhammer miniatures, but not for painting and detailing. It’s also used frequently for nearly all of my Gunpla model kits (except for very small details & weathering).
Where to use an airbrush:
I would recommend not using one outside as you can get water-based, low toxic paints, such as Vallejo Air and Vallejo Game Air. Over a long period of time you may notice some colored dust appear around the door frame of the room you spray in. As a luxury, the that I have mentioned previously, is a brilliant if you are doing lots of airbrushing and what to extract all particles. It’s also easy to fold up and take to a different room, or even take it to a friends house for a spray-athon, or on a road trip if that’s the sort of model-making lifestyle you lead!
Wear Protection When Spraying
As we discussed previously, we have options to spray indoors or outdoors depending on our paint choice. One thing to remember when using any toxic, or mildly toxic materials, is your health. Don’t put your health at risk for the sake of convenience. For this reason I’d suggest wearing disposable gloves when spray painting or using toxic products likely to come into contact with your hands.
If your spraying indoors with appropriate materials, make sure it’s well ventilated and wear (at least) a basic to prevent inhalation of paint particles. If you are spraying large amounts of toxic material in a garage environment, be sure to well ventilate the area if possible and consider looking into getting a much higher quality, .
Paint With A Wet Palette
A wet palette is an absolute essential if you are hand painting a model. It is really simple but can make your entire painting process much cleaner and much more simple. The wet palette provides a long duration of moisture to your paint, preventing it from drying out too quickly. Understanding how it works will help you to make an effective wet palette.
How does it work?
A wet palette consists of 4 layers (5 if you include the paint):
Layer 1 – A palette, tray or shallow container that will hold water.
Layer 2 – Enough water to keep things moist, but don’t flood the container.
Layer 3 – Paper towel or sponge.
Layer 4 – Parchment Paper.
Layer 5 – Paint.
Basically, the palette holds the water and keeps the paper towel or sponge wet. As the paint (sitting on the Parchment Paper) would begin to dry, it slowly draws moisture from the porous paper towel, through the less porous parchment paper. The parchment paper provides a barrier to stop your paint from diluting directly into the water.
This simple method will keep your paints lasting for a much longer time during your painting process and majorly reduce the amount of paint you use per project.
Holding Your Parts
This one seems like a simple one; use them hands. However, don’t forget there are times when you really should hold your parts. When I bulk spray any models, I like to use some DIY holders using alligator/crocodile clips and wooden kebab sticks. This makes it really simple to anchor your parts into a piece of foam and spray away from hands or clothing.
When painting with a brush I’d encourage the use of some thin medical latex gloves. There are some really, really cheap disposable glove out there, but I use the SuperTouch disposable gloves because they are internally powdered with absorbance dusting powder that prevents any sweating hands after long periods of time, making them really easy to get off and on. And to be honest, the price difference is not that significant.
If paint isn’t involved, I will just use my hands. Having tactile feedback and a good grip of your part is essential (especially when scribing or working with blades).
Add Water Slide Decals
If you compare a regular painted model with a painted model with waterslide decals, the difference (in my opinion) is night and day. Water slide decals add character, definition and varying levels of customization and uniqueness. There are a few good places to buy the decals online, the most hassle-free being Amazon and Ebay. However, they are also available on some well-known Asian hobby sites, such as 1999 HobbySearch and Samuel Decal. Prices may vary between each of these, but I prefer Amazon and Ebay for these, simply because I’m more comfortable with the postage and reliability of service.
A waterslide decal is a designed image, printed on Water Transfer Paper, that allows you to carefully position and adhere the decal to your model surface. It allows for really small details to be applied to the model with a smooth, clean finish – there’s nothing worse than trying to hand paint on some 1/144 text onto a plastic panel that ends up looking more like a series of worms instead of highly technical information.
An example of a sheet that I used for my Gundam Astaroth – this one is a multi-use sheet and can potentially be used for any Iron-Blooded Orphans 1/144 Gunpla kit.
For applying the waterslide decals, it is as simple as cutting it out with a surgical blade to get a nice clean edge. Then, holding the decal with some tweezers, dip it into some water. Place the decal onto some tissue paper to soak up the excess water. Slide the decal off the paper backing and position it onto your model using Micro Set and Micro Sol.
will help apply the decal – it keeps the decal soft and you can add some more if you want to try and reposition a slightly dried decal. Apply some onto the surface that you are placing the decal onto. Once you have the decal in the desired position, let it sit for a while and dry out.
softens the positioned decal and allows it to really settle down onto the surface. It’s very useful for irregular surfaces – it sort of melts the decal and fuses it with the model, removing any signs of it being a paper transfer.
Create Custom Water Slide Decals
Making your own custom water slide decals is by far one of the easiest and most cost-effective ways of adding some extremely unique features to your model-making project. If you have the tools to apply regular water slide decals you are probably not far off having what you need to create your own and apply them. The main ingredients are:
- Software to create Vector artwork (I use Adobe Illustrator)
- Water Transfer Paper
- Coating Spray
In terms of the best printer to use, there is plenty of debate online in relation to using an inkjet or laser printer. Personally, I use an Inkjet printer () simply because it is what I already own. It’s decently priced and it has the ability to print up to A3 paper, which is great for some of my other work.
Once you have your desired decals on-screen, simply print them out on your desired and let it rest for an hour or so. The longer you leave these things (usually) the more robust they become. Then, apply some really fine mist coats of your desired clear coating spray. The coating helps to protect your printed decal and also add a bit of strength to it during the application process. As with all the other tips, I’d strongly recommend trying this out on test pieces first – make sure your custom decals don’t react badly to your clear coating spray, paints or topcoat!
Apply Weathering; Realistic Damage
If you take one thing from this tip, it has to be this: apply weathering last, after all painting, detailing, and a topcoat. That being said, if you like the look of weather models, there are tonnes of options for creating these effects.
Rust and Oil
Creating a good rust effect can seem daunted at the beginning, but it really is a lot of fun. I use the Vallejo Environment Rust Texture to create a flakey, rusted finish. It can also be useful oxidized or burnt metal detail. In conjunction with this I will use Vallejo Rust Wash (for a less textured rust) and Citadel Agrax Earthshade for some runny, oil-spilled areas of a model.
When applying any oil leaking detail, I would suggest always applying it in the direction of gravity to create the most realistic effect.
Using a small piece of foam dipped in your chosen paint, dab off the excess on a paper towel. Then, use this as your scratching tool. Imagine how the colliding object (foam) would hit you model surface in order to create some believable markings. If you want to add some more unique scratches, I would recommend using a fine detail brush to carefully paint on some very thin metallic details.
These can be created really quickly using simple dry brushing techniques (I’ll not go into dry brushing detail here). The benefit of this is that you can really use any color you have at your disposal. Some paints come specific targeted at dry brushing, such as Citadel Edge paints, but you can use almost anything provided it is not too thin.
If you are looking to experiment with a different weathering method, the pastels (aka the model-makers make-up kit) is a neat way to add some nice worn edges, dirt and dust to your model. The color selection is arguable a bit limited, but the colors are much more appropriate and recognisable as ‘weathered’ colors.
Custom Build Parts – 3D Printing
Custom 3D printed model parts are not easily accessible for everyone – I’m lucky to have access to one in work (I’m a Product Designer) that I can use for small, personal model-making projects. If you can, try and get some CAD files and print off some simple objects. Hopefully, some time in the not-to-distant future, Miniature will be able to provide a 3D printing service for custom parts (and requests) for model-making projects.
One of the less complicated things to 3D print is a custom base for a model. Here is an example of a hexagonal 3D printed base I have made for a Gundam model. It’s still a work in progress, but the plan is to model it into a clean and simple diorama base. This leads us onto the final tip…
Use Additional Parts
If you are working on a Warhammer piece, add some along the destructive path of your model or fix an orc head on a spike to the backpack of a Space Marine. Just be sure to use the same scale as the model and things start to look pretty awesome!
And, if you can’t 3D print any custom parts for a Gunpla project, Bandai have tonnes of additional scale parts under the range. Definitely worth checking out if you want some broken parts laying around a diorama.
Add Some Scale
Adding appropriate scale to your model-making can come in many shapes and forms. As we have already mentioned, custom panel lines and water-slide decals are two ways that can help achieve a very convincing perception of true scale. 3D printing can also be a useful tool for adding scale, for example, try printing a 1/144 scale road and some realistic signs that your Gundam can tower over.
There are also multiple sellers of scale model ‘accessories’. Here are a few other great ways to add scale your project:
Nature and Terrain
This kind of scale modelling is more prominent in Warhammer and other tabletop model-making, but is equally viable in any kind of project. Ruined buildings can add an extra war-torn effect to your weathered models, while also putting their true size into perspective. There are a few 3D printed objects that you can get, but be careful – some of there are very nondescript and lack detail, or even completely ruin any sense of scale. Sometimes, less is more, and adding a simple of grass or scale can be the perfect addition to set the scene and not detract from the centerpiece model.
Hermoli Model Figures (UK/EU only) come in a range of 1/50, 1/100, 1/200, which is really only ideal for 1/100 Gundam model kits. However, GUNPLA Builder Parts come in 1/144 scale and are really well detailed. figures have some awesome action pose figures in 1/100 and 1/144 (really useful if you need a miniature engineer ushering your mecha into station).
I’m not the biggest fan of creating hugely complex dioramas, but I really love the Gundam Hangar/Bases that are available. are brilliant for being able to store either a 1/144 or 1/100 model without either looking out of place.
For great photography of your finished kits, Wave H Hangar and Octagon Hangar Diorama kits are amazing – combine these with the perfect lighting for some powerful shots of your work!
If you made it the end, thanks for reading. Let us know your favorite tip to improve at scale model-making, or if you think there are more – let us know on Twitter, it’s the best place to get in touch!
Miniaturite is a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for sites to earn advertising fees by advertising and linking to Amazon.com and Amazon.co.uk.